Q.What size cage do I need to get for my bird?
A. Get the largest you can possibly afford. This is where the bird will spend a great deal of it's time. A good rule of thumb is that the bird should be able to stretch out its wings fully in at least one direction. Note that "outstretched wing length" refers to the span of the *unclipped* wings.
Q. Is bar spacing important?
A. Yes. If it is too large, a smaller bird could hang itself. 1 3/16 is a good space for medium birds and 1 3/8 is good for larger. 3/4 inch spacing is fine for cockatiels, smaller than that for finches. (respectively 3.02, 3.50, and 1.90 cm)
Q. What about horizontal vs. vertical bars?
A. Horizontal bars are nice for the birds because they're easy to climb. Vertical bars make it hard to climb, but don't fray long tail feathers. Cages are now available that have vertical front and back bars and horizontal side bars. This should please everyone.
Q. What kind of metal is used for the cages?
A. Anodized aluminum, Brass, stainless steel, wrought iron. For some of the smaller cages for less destructive birds, wood and clear acrylic sheeting, like Plexiglas(TM), may be used.
Q. I'd like a colored cage...can I get one?
A. Some cages are available with a "powder coat finish" so you can get them in different colors, however, birds can eventually gnaw the finish off. There are epoxy painted cages as well. Some cages come in wood cabinets, and you can order custom designs to match your decor.
Q. Do I need a wrought iron cage with those fancy curlicues?
A. Nope. The fancy stuff can be hard to clean, and the bird can get caught in
it.
Q. What's a knock down cage?
A. It's a cage that comes shipped flat and unassembled. Nut and bolt assemblies hold it together. Be careful if you have a mechanically inclined bird, it might loosen screws. Check the every so often. One piece cages are just that. They're completely assembled and welded together.
Q. I've seen great deals on cages, should I get one?
A. Sure, as long as it's sturdy and safe. Check for sharp corners, poor latches, shoddy paint. Paint can be toxic and if the bird gnaws on it disaster could ensue. Look at the welds. Are they smooth and virtually invisible? Give the cage a good shake. Does it stand firm, or sway precariously? This is your bird's house we're talking about, here. When in doubt, don't buy it. Be extra careful about imported cages, they can be painted with lead paint or be shoddily made. One thing that is often ignored is the tray in the bottom of the cage. Make sure it has smooth, finished edges. I recently came across a cage that looked great, until I pulled out the tray. It was simply a piece of galvanized metal with a front lip. The back and sides weren't finished, and they were rather sharp. Even with a grate, I wouldn't use such a tray. Improbable accidents do happen, and I wouldn't want my birds to lose a toe or worse because I wanted to save a few bucks.
Q. I don't have the money for a new cage, how about a used one?
A. As long as the bird didn't die of some contagious disease, it should be fine. Disinfect the cage thoroughly. One text I came across suggests taking a portable blowtorch and searing the cage. This would definitely kill any yuckies, but would melt anything other than a thick steel or iron cage. A disinfectant used in aviaries would probably be great.
Q. Where should the cage be placed?
A. Never in direct sunlight! But a bright area close to the hubbub of your household is ideal. There should be no drafts of hot or cold air. The kitchen, due to fumes, flames, and such is a poor idea. Dreary basements are a poor choice too. A finished basement is fine, as long as it's not damp and has good circulation and there's action going on that the bird can be part of.
Q. Do I really need to cover the cage?
A. Depends on the bird. Birds, like people, need undisturbed sleep. If the bird is in a room you can darken, then no, you don't need a cover. Sometimes, the bird may be scared of the covered cage. Other times, birds may refuse to go to sleep if the cage isn't covered, and will holler for it. If you turn down the heat in your house at night, covering the cage is really a good idea. You can get custom covers made to fit any size or shape or use a sheet or a blanket. Covering a cage can help reduce screaming at the break of day.
Q. How do I clean the bird's cage?
A. Cold, soapy water, chlorine bleach, and a sponge work well for everyday cleanups. Bleach losesits disinfecting strength in hot water and when in contact with organic matter. Therefore, clean as much of the fecal material and food off of the cage, etc. as possible before wiping down with the bleach. For a more through cleaning (e.g. once a week) you may want to use some sort of disinfectant. Popular disinfectants include:
When using disinfectants make sure you know what it will and won't kill, and how long you must leave it in contact with the surface to do the job. This is very important. Finally rinse the cage, etc. well, and make sure that everything is dry before putting the bird back.
Q. What should I use for as a tray liner?
A. There are several options, and much debate over what is best. You could use: no liner, gravel paper, plain newsprint paper, shavings, processed cobs, newspaper. Birds should not ingest any of the above, although plain paper isn't harmful, it will get soiled. A grid above the tray will prevent ingestion of liner material and any dropped and soiled food. Newspaper itself is not toxic, but some inks are. You can call your local paper to find out what type of ink they use. Soy-based inks are non-toxic. No liner means you've got to scrub out the pan, to which the poop has probably cemented itself. Processed cobs can actually be used with or without a grid, but make sure your bird doesn't eat them. There is commercially prepared gravel paper, but it's hard to find in the larger sizes and the gravel usually doesn't stick to it very well, and ends up all over.
***HELP! My bird is an escape artist!***
Sammy, the green-cheeked conure (Pyrrhura molinae) kept escaping from his cage via the sliding door, and the food accesses. I "wired" them shut with Quick Links(TM)--c-type links. They were easier than messing with those plastic "pine tree" type garbage bag ties. You may have to use padlocks with larger birds. However, some of them are *very* mechanically inclined (especially Cockatoos) and may very well pick the lock. For the die hard cases, use combination locks.
SOURCES FOR CAGES:
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Animal Environments 1954 Kellogg Ave., Suite B Carlsbad, CA 92008 1-888-553-BIRD (2473) or (760) 438-4442 Fax: (760) 438-6636 Email: Birdcage@AnimalEnvironments.com |
Bird N' Ways Listings |
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California Cages, Inc. P.O. Box 6018 Altadena, CA 91003 800-777-3390 Fax: 626-815-8452 |
Clearly Exotics Aviary Products 508-823-8737 Email: Clearlyexotics@webtv.net |
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Econo-Line Cages The Feather Farm, Inc. 1181 Fourth Avenue Napa, CA 94559 (707) 255-8833 Email: cs@featherfarm.com |
Inglebrook Forges 2001E. Gladstone Sy. Suite "D" Glendora, CA 91740 (909) 599-0933 |
| Kings Cages, L.P. 145 Sherwood Avenue Farmingdale, NY 11735 USA (516)-777-7300 Email: kingscages@msn.com |
KW Cages 1-800-447-CAGE Email: kwcages@aol.com |
| Morton Jones Co. Order Desk 1-800-443-5769 Fax: (619) 789-2740 Email: mjones@ramonamall.com |
Safeguard Products, Inc. PO Box 8 New Holland, PA 17557-0008 800-433-1819 Email: Sales@SafeguardProducts.com |
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Swelland's Cage & Supply Co. 312 13th St. Ramona, CA. 92065 (800) 662-2089 |
The Pet Ranch 3015 Pioneer Way Jamul, CA 91935 (619) 669 - 1089 |
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"Safe Paper" Trademark Productions 1336 North Third Ave. Upland, CA 91786 (909) 920-9820 or email: trdmrk@primenet.com |
| The paper is absorbant and comes in neutral color or brown stock. Individual sheets are $0.15 (this covers shipping) for the neutral color and slightly higher for the brown stock paper. |