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Patti In Oz wrote:One of the avian vets that I worked with at the wildlife hospital told me that in-water meds can be less effective with birds like tiels because they are desert dwellers and only drink once a day....twice at best...in the wild. And if the water doesn't taste right, and they have fruit and veg available they will opt to get their hydration that way and avoid the water. She would always recommend that when treating desert dwelling species that all f&v be withheld while meds were being given. Has anyone else been told anything similar? I AM NOT SAYING THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD DO WITH MATEO, but I can see the logic behind it, and it's a practice I often follow still.

That was a very good suggestion regarding testing to find out if Mateo feels a need for supplimental heat!!!! If he does it can be a real lifesaver to just relieve his body of the responsibility of doing that for itself.

Yes, it is highly likely that there is a difference between your scales and the vet's. But now you have your baseline for your scales you can monitor his weight and accurately determine whether he is indeed gaining or losing.

If you are fairly confidant that the redness has increased while you were using the cream then I would definitely give it a miss til you see this new vet on Friday. You come across to me as articulate and intelligent, and if you approach this new vet in that manner I am sure you will have an excellent working relationship.

How To Provide Supplemental Heat

A supplemental heat source is essential for ill or injured birds. Birds lose body heat very rapidly when ill or injured. Place the sick bird in a warm, humid and dim area with a temperature of 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. This area should be as quiet and secluded as possible. To create a warm environment:

Cover a small cage with a towel and place the cage on a heating pad that is set on low.
Infrared lamps can also be used, but place them slightly back from the cage to avoid overheating the bird. Make sure that no cords or parts of heating pads are within reach where they may be chewed by the bird.
The inside temperature of the cage can be monitored with an aquarium thermometer that has been placed out of the bird’s reach. Wings that are held away from the body or panting are signs indicating that the bird is too warm. Provide easy access to water or to an electrolyte replacement solution for the bird. Sick birds can dehydrate rapidly due to lack of water consumption and the disease processes. Electrolyte solutions rehydrate the bird more quickly and also provide replacement of those electrolytes lost with vomiting or diarrhea. Discuss the recommended solution with your veterinarian.

christie wrote:I don't think regular pet stores sell the heat panels, but BB will have to confirm that. There may be a reptile heat lamp that you can use. I personally use a heating pad on low that is waterproof and use the cover to clip in on the cage or I use a lamp with an uncovered bulb.

Patti In Oz wrote:Mateo looks like a real sweetheart! I have all sorts of parrots but my tiels will always be special to me! Hubby says they are prissy little things...lol.....but I guess that's just part of their charm.

I am in Australia, and haven't been a yank for a decade, but I would think that you would be able to get something satisfactory at a pet shop to provide supplimental heat. Even a whelping mat might work??????

Just keep in mind that providing heat from beneath isn't particularly effective with birds. So the pad needs to be placed on the side of his cage. And he needs to be able to adjust his temp by being either closer or farther away from the heat source as he sees fit.

In this instance it is great that Mateo isn't into healthy food. And fantastic that you know he's drinking enough of his medicated water. You'll have to get input from BB or BL as to whether he's been on the med long enough for it to be having any noticable impact. It's not one that I use enough to be able to say with any accuracy how long it would normally take for it to kick in properly.

Give yourself a pat on the back. You are paying attention to all the right things.

Bluesbird Exotics wrote:Here's the thread where we discussed the heat panel: cockatiel/topic97304.html Giving you this instead of just the link to the seller b/c you might benefit from reading more about it. I've used mine for several years and will never be w/o one. They're great!

Patti, chlamydia, parrot fever, and psittacosis are the same disease. Don't know why we have so many names for one ailment, but we do! I've never heard that explanation re desert birds. It makes sense, but I hope it's not true. I also don't know how long into a 30-day round we might expect to see results. I'm a week into another round with a quaker who's been a plucker for 2 years. I think I might be seeing some refeathering on her chest, but she's also still chewing a lot more on her legs and underwings than I want to see. Poor birds.

christie wrote:Years ago I used a regular light bulb. Now you can buy lights from the pet store that will give out heat, ask what will work and read over that link I gave you.

Infrared lamps can also be used, but place them slightly back from the cage to avoid overheating the bird.