TOTALLY confused....

Complete discussion of American Budgies and English Budgies including their care, training, and breeding and more.

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Postby ParrontPlus on Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:30 am

fuzzy wrote:... a bird can get a good amount of calcium from dark green veggies...


The DARK green veggies include collards, broccoli, kale, chard, mustard, carrots, bok choy, arugula, watercress, endive, and Romaine lettuce. All other forms of lettuce are mostly water and pretty much total lacking any nutritional value. So, you'll want to substitute nutritious greens for the lettuce your birds are enjoying, unless it's Romaine.

Happy reading!
Paca


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pampered chef

Postby bostonbudgie on Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:44 pm

hmmm..pampered chef was the only company that sold clay loaf pans and muffin pans. I use this INSTEAD of pans etc...that have that non-stick crap.
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Postby fuzzy on Thu Oct 04, 2007 6:03 pm

Hey Pearl - have you tried letting the birdies out yet? :D
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Postby MFids on Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:50 pm

This is a near to complete guide to visually sexing budgies. In some budgies, it can be hard to tell for sure. In others they may be too young. It's best to wait until they are mature to visually sex them!

Male budgies, as adults have bright blue ceres, or even a vibrant purple cere. As young chicks, they normally have pink ceres. In some mutations, such as pieds, lutinos, and albinos, the males normally retain a pink cere, but it is not completely unknown for some to have a tan cere (rare, but it has happened... It's also rare for one a lutino or albino to have a blue cere, but it has happened!). Here are a few photos of male budgies!

Image Image
Image Image


Femle budgies, as adults, will have a crusty brown cere when in breeding condition, and a white cere with blue tints when out of breeding condition. Young females have white ceres with varient amount of blue in them, and possibly even tan or brown coloring. This is true for ALL mutations (even pieds, lutinos, and albinos). Here are some photos!

Image Image
Image Image
Image Image


I hope this is a helpful guide for all of those looking to sex our budgies! This was done with 3 of my budgies, one of Kathy's budgies, and a few random budgies (I believe), which were prodived by Kathy!


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Look into sprout mixes...
Organic Bird Food - Dynamo Sprout Mixes - Nature's Choice Essentials 100% Certified Organic Bird Food
Certified Organic Sprouts, Sprout Mix for Parrots, Avian Naturals Preservative free parrot foods.
Sprouts for pets
Parrots are my Weakness.: Sprouting for Parrots
Avian FRESH Diet Parrot Food
Birdcamp Sprout Mix Information
http://www.thebirdbrain.com/html/FoodForUs.cfm
sproutmix
Parrot Sprouts and More
Parrots on the Porch
FOOD - SPROUT SEEDS AND MIXES
Bird Food, Organic Sprouts, Parrot Food, Bird Seed. Bulk Bird Food. Grey Feather Toy Creations.
Blake Aviary Soak Seed Mix
Diet
HolisticBird and HolisticBirds
Bird Food_parrot seeds, treats and nuts for parrots
Beane's Birds - The Charlene Beane Company

Pamperedpeeps Aviary- Parrot mash
This is a step by step How to pictures from food & drink photos on webshots
Winged Wisdom magazine ezine e-zine - Sprouts, first aid kits, cultures articles - pet parrots pet birds & exotic birds care

From the Healthy Bird Cookbook by Robin Deutsch - Ch 4-5

Weaning Foods
The following is a list of general foods that will provide the appropriate amount of nutrients for weaning birds when fed in variety and in a balanced diet.

Grains, Breads, and Muffins
Corn bread
Graham Crackers
Mandel bread, soaked,
Matzoh balls
Mini bagels
Oatmeal
Pastas
Rice
Rice cakes
Rice Chex
Rice Krispies
Sweetened corn cereals
Sweetened oat cereals
Toasted bread
Unsalted crackers
Unsalted, unbuttered popcorn
Wheat cereals
Whole-wheat or multi-grained bread
Zweibach toast, soaked
Other grains

Vegetables
When served as weaning foods, the following vegetables should be cut into pieces and cooked.
Beans
Beets
Broccoli
Carrots
Corn
Green beans
Jalapeno peppers
Lima beans
Mixed vegetables
Okra
Peas
Potatoes
Summer squash
Sweet Potatoes
Winter squash
Yams


Fruit
Before serving these fruits to your baby birds, they need to be cut into small pieces.
Apple
Bananas
Berries (all kinds)
Grapes
Kiwis
Mangos
Melons
Oranges
Papaya
Pears
Star fruit
Winter squash
Yams


Other Foods
Hulled seeds
Millet Spray
Monkey biscuits
Peanut butter sandwiches rolled in millet
Pellets
Scrambled eggs
Hard-boiled eggs
Sprouted seeds



Foods to Avoid and Other Hazards
Chocolate (contains theobromine which over time is toxic to birds as the toxic builds up)
Avocados
(pit of avocado is poisonous, however flesh can become tainted with toxin)
Sugar (can lead to diabetes, yeast infections, heart disorders, high cholesterol, calcium imbalance)
Old Seeds (can contain fungus, mycotoxins, alfatoxins) NOTE: try to always freeze new seeds and only use as much needed in a week or feed from freezer (good for pellets as well)
Mayonnaise Products (can go bad in crop)
Unwashed Fruits or Vegetables (possible chance of pesticides being used on fresh foods-chance of bacteria)
Rhubarb (leaves contain chemical called oxalic acid-same with spinach, though spinach is healthy for birds so feed the spinach in small amounts)
Fruit Pits (pits contain cyanide, remove pits and cut away any discoloration around the pits, such as in peaches)
Nuts (brazil nuts/almonds-dangerous mainly around holidays when imported nuts are polished and dyed-just be careful where you get your nuts from, peanuts can spoil quickly as well)
Dairy Products (birds are lactose [milk sugar] intolerant-feed sparingly... hard cheese and cooked eggs are fine)
Mold (present on peanuts, other nuts, legumes, grains, fruits, vegetables-be sure food is fresh)
Caffeine (in coffee and sodas-can cause serious problems in birds, most notably behavior problems)
Salt (birds cannot excrete salt as humans can, result in high blood pressure)
Alcohol (birds cannot metabolize alcohol, even in small amounts)
Food Dyes (synthetic food colors sometimes derived from petroleum or coal tars... in high doses, can cause cancer, allergies, behavior disorders-try to use only natural dyes)
Sulfites (found in dried foods off the shelf’s, causes behavior problems-buy from health food store or dry your own foods)


Here's a great site on the nutrition information on foods of any type (including fast foods)
NutritionData.com NutritionData's Nutrition Facts Calorie Counter

Here's a list of foods that can be fed (although not complete) from the Healthy Bird Cookbook by Robin Deutsch.

Grains, Breads, and Muffins
Corn bread
Graham crackers
Mandel bread, soaked
Matzoh
Matzoh balls
Mini bagels
Oatmeal
Pastas
Rice
Rice cakes
Rice Chex
Rice Krispies
Sweetened corn cereals
Sweetened oat cereals
Toasted bread
Unsalted crackers
Unsalted, unbuttered popcorn
Wheat cereals
Whole-wheat or multigrained bread
Zweibach toast, soaked
Other grains

Vegetables
Beans
Beets
Broccoli
Carrots
Corn
Green beans
Jalapeno peppers
Lima beans
Mixed vegetables
Okra
Peas
Potatoes
Summer squash
Sweet Potatoes
Winter squash
Yams

Fruit
Apples
Bananas
Berries (all kind)
Grapes
Kiwis
Mangos
Melons
Oranges
Papaya
Pears
Star Fruit
Winter Squash
Yams

Other Foods
Hulled seeds
Millet spray
Monkey biscuits
Peanut butter sandwiches rolled in millet
Pellets
Scrambled eggs
Hard-boiled eggs
Sprouted seeds


Foods to avoid
Chocolate
Avocados
Sugar (too much is a bad thing... best kind is natural sugars)
Old Seeds
Mayonnaise products
Unwashed Fruits or Vegetables
Rhubarb (contains oxalic acid, as does spinach - feed only in small amounts)
Fruit Pits
Nuts (brazil nuts, almonds, imported nuts that have been polished/dyed)
Dairy Products (birds are lactose intolerent-feed small amounts-cleaned/cooked eggs and yogurt fine)
Mold
Caffeine
Salt
Alcohol
Food Dyes
Sulfites (found in dried fruits and veggies to help preserve them-only from health food store)
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Postby MFids on Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:34 pm

Now, I'll probably be echoing what others have said, but I'll be saying it in my own words.... forgive me if it's repetitive.

I have changed their food to fresh budgie food from our local mill store.. they told me not to use the ones from the pet/grocery stores as they are not fresh, etc...
I agree with the store about the grocery shop.... grocery stores tend to have some pretty bad mixes. Generally speaking however, it's best to buy bagged food, that has a lot of variety. You can even mix seeds together. The main thing you want is seed that DOES NOT contain dyes, and is not very dusty...

My budgies, tiels, n bourke (discluding cherry head/large parrot food) get a mixture of two seeds (discluding sprouts, too)... the two images below you can click to enlarge...

Sweet Harvest Cockatiel no/sun Seed (bought in 20lb bags)
Image

Canary mix (bought from a feed store from a "top" bin, not exposed much to air)
Image

I mix these two seeds together as 2 parts cockatiel 1 part canary. The birds tend to eat most, if not all, of the mix.

would love to learn what else to feed them and in layman`s terms...
See above post....

food placement..where do these treats go??...
Fresh foods should be a part of a birds daily diet, and the wider the variety, the better. Where to put them? Be creative! In their food dish, hanging from the cage top, weaved into the bars, etc. Try presentation differently too... i.e. leave the foods whole, dice them, chop them, shred them, slice them, put them through the food processor, try cooked, or steamed. Mix them together or feed separately. A good idea is to mix sprouted seeds (about 3 days ago), about 5-6 veggies (of bright/deep/rich colors, i.e. carrot, cooked sweet potato, steamed broccoli, parsley, etc) through a food processor, and mixed in with a little bit of brown/wild rice and/or cooked beans (15 bean soup minus soup packet).

I was told from a local pet store owner that the cage I have now is for cockatiels...
My mitred conure lives in a macaw cage (40"x30"x60"). My bourke lives in a flight cage (30"x20"x43"). My budgies, tiels, and cherry head are cage-free in an 11' x 14' room.

Honestly, the bigger, the better! For 1 budgie I wouldn't recommend a cage smaller than 2' square. For two budgies, I'd say something a little bigger... However, please remember, birds fly horizontally, not vertically... thus, when picking out a cage, go with a cage longer than it is tall, if at all possible. HQ Cages make great flight cages for pretty cheap! More so if you could find one in your area used... They normally sell for about $150 ea, I bought mine for $100, and I know of others who have bought theirs for $50-$75 ea.

I should have no wire at the bottom of the cage...
The wire is used to keep the birds from going to the bottom of the cage to eat their own poop, to eat old food, or to get into the cage liner... Black & White newspaper, printer paper, or unprinted rolls of newspaper are best to use on the bottom...

the cage should have horizontal bars not vertical...
Watching my budgies in the flight cage in the past, I doubt it matters.... they seemed to have fun sliding down the cage bars! Besides, they had no issues climbing up!

I have added perches, as they only had one...
General rule of thumb, they need at least 3 perches. They should have at least one natural SAFE perch, one rope perch, and whatever else... Natural safe branches from trees that haven't been treated for pesticides make great perches as they also make great chewing "toys".

some gravel paper for when I get a new cage...on the 2 new perches I have added sand perch covers....
No gravel, no grit. Parrots hull their seeds thus they do not need grit or gravel in order to digest their food. Gravel/grit can cause crop impaction, and the grit could also possibly cut up the inside of the crop. Grit is said to be good for calcium, however there are plenty of fresh foods with calcium, along with cooked eggs.

Sand covered perches are not stable, and/or they cause sores on a bird feet... which can lead to bumblefoot....

everywhere I go I get different answers...it is sooo frustrating!!!...
People will always have different opinions on what is right or wrong. You should do as much research as you can, and decide for yourself what is healthy and safe for you and your fids.

I also own 3 dogs and the one seems VERY interested in the birds...should I let them try to fly in my front room, where I can close the doors, away from the dogs??
If you let the budgies out, be sure the dogs are elsewhere where they can't get in, and warn anyone that you are letting them out... also, if need be, lock all doors into the room so no one can open them.

they flap, flap when my arm goes in the cage, but I talk away to them to try and calm them...
It takes time and patience... it could be a couple weeks, or a few months... the main thing is to go slow, read to them, sing to them... Before feeding them in the morning (i.e. no food in the cage), you can put some seed into your hand and put it just SLIGHTLY inside the door. Be sure that there is a perch near the door. Leave your hand there for 15-30 minutes each morning. You can also try using millet. Eventually, you could try tempting them to come out of the cage to get the food.

Believe me, it takes patience! Watch these below!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUx81WHTUwk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVESvigbl2o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlSm4uFZzVU

Just to let you know, none of these budgies are tame... and now that they are cage-free I haven't tried to continue feeding them in this manner so they no longer fly to me for food.

if I do catch one to take it out to fly, how the heck can I catch it again to get back into the cage????
If flighted, this could be difficult.... I know since I've gotten good enough exercise chasing budgies TOWARD their cage to try and get them back in! Of course, I'm sure if I had millet, it may have been easier to temp them back in! Most budgies love millet!

I still don`t know how to tell the sexes.....
See above post...

I have given them a spray of millet, just attached it to the top of the cage, but they seems not interested in it
New birds in a new situation tend to be stressed out and worried... they may not eat a lot of food or drink a lot of water until they get more settled in.... of course then again they might not know what millet is.

why are they selling me all the stuff that I don`t need??
Simply put? Because your willing to buy it, thus they are making a profit. Yes, they will even sell you items that will kill your birds (i.e. mite protectors)

will they ever talk...
It's possible but usually in groups of two or more, budgies are not known for learning to talk. I have a pair of cockatiels, that had two offspring (among others who I'm sure were sold) in another home. The male offspring I'm sure was probably handled or at least talked to enough that he did pick up a few words as well as whistles... however, he was also around other birds beyond his parents and sister. I doubt the owner has any more birds (and I hope so, considering the condition I got the tiels in was neglect and you could even say abuse). However, a difference here is that this tiel was probably at least somewhat handraised if not handfed. Both of your budgies are most likely parent raised.... parent raised budgies CAN learn to talk, but it's just easier if you have one who's friendly.


As far as toys, DO NOT give them mirrors. They may love beads, leather, popsicle sticks, etc. Make sure they have 5+ toys to keep them occupied!




As for some general rules... no candles, no air fresheners, no perfumes around the birds, no smoking around the birds, if you smoke, wash your hands thoroughly before handling the birds, or if you have anything on your hands (such as lotion), wash your hands. No self cleaning ovens, no heavy cleaning products or paints around them, no nonstick items (from pans, to grills, to toasters, even hair dryers! make sure none of your stuff contains teflon, PTFE, or anything related to the two in them!). otherwise, I can't think of what else at the moment...
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