Have a pair of breeding Sun Conures and...NEED HELP!

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Have a pair of breeding Sun Conures and...NEED HELP!

Postby quakingcanopy on Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:22 am

All right, quick back story. A birdy friend told me about a breeding pair she knew was for sale. They'd been for sale for about a month and had started at $900, down to 8, 7, 6, 5, 4... Supposedly the owner wasn't posting ads or anything like that, just asking the local bird club and pet stores to get the word around. But she was desperate to sell them...

So, we go meet them and see if there is maybe another reason. Well, the birds themselves are in good weight, excellent feather, alert, no discharges or other signs of illness. But the cage is tiny, rusted, and filthy. They are being feed a very basic safflower mix and have just 1 perch - no toys, nothing else. The owner tells us the male squeals his head off and she doesn't like it. So, we ask if maybe she could get a bigger cage, toys, and improve their diet. She isn't interested, just wants them GONE. Oh and, she's pretty sure they mated the day before we came to see them. I also learned she was their 4th owner and originally they had been imported from Hawaii and that they are 4 years old. They have supposedly clutched without any issues with only the occasional egg of 2-4 not being fertile.

I felt so bad for them and I know I have the room so I take them off her hands and pay the $400. Now, I have a breeding pair and I honestly don't know enough to handle a clutch yet so I want to get as much info as will possible sink into my head before we have chicks.

Now, timeline here is they bred on Sunday, picked them up Monday, and here we are. We have no eggs yet, but the female is in the box all the time only coming out to eat or drink - the male is outside being protective. He goes in frequently to regurgitate and feed her. So, first question, how long after breeding does it take for Suns to begin laying eggs? I know with some birds it's the next day, and others it takes 10. I don't know what the time frame for Suns though.

Now, I am switching their food to what I feed my female I already have. 10% large parrot nut and seed mix (almonds, peanuts, sunflower seeds), 40% cockatiel diet (safflower, millet, dried fruit, a few nuts) and %50 pellet. The lady who had them said she couldn't give me more then a bowl of what she was feeding so I used that and mixed it with my current stuff to help transition, but is 3 days long enough? They don't pay much attention to the pellets - how can I encourage them to eat them? My other girl loves them and eats a full variety. Also, I feed my girl fruits and veggies every day and for the 2 years the last owner had the breeding pair she did not offer that kind of diet. Is it okay to introduce that stuff slowly as well or should I wait until they fully transition on to my seed and pellets mix?

I added a big toy, a cuttle bone, some gravel and shell but it's my intention to get them a new cage; I'm bringing it home today. I've attached a picture of the one my girl is in, this i the same one I am getting for them. How do I go about moving them? Should I wait until they lay or...? While I know the space, more perches, toys, etc will be much better for them I don't want to stress them out too much. I also have the additional goal of curbing the males screeching which - yes, he does! - by giving him more space and things to do while his mate hangs out in the box. I also have been keeping my curtains open but closing them if he squeals, opening when he is quiet. He is catching on quickly and we only got 6 loud bursts yesterday as opposed to dozens the day before. I am otherwise leaving them alone and they are in a fairly quiet room with just my other sun conure. Back to the cage - Would like to get them moved and settled, when is the best time?

Next questions - she said something about the bands on their feet. They are backwards? The male's is on the left and the female's is on the right? Is that backwards? I wasn't aware there was a standard.

Will the males pluck their chest? He did it the day they mated, supposedly, and so she put pine shavings in the box and he stopped. The female did not pluck hers. He only took a few feathers in a small patch that you can only see if he is standing upright. But, I for some reason had the impression only the females would do that...

Okay, so that's what I have right now. I am sure more will come up!

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  • Re: Have a pair of breeding Sun Conures and...NEED HELP!

    Postby MFids on Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:50 pm

    First and foremost, I would like to see pictures of this pair...

    A pair of sun conures, with or without cage should be within the $300-$600 range.... anyway, my suggestion would be to remove the nestbox (if they have one), and get them onto a healthier diet, and take them in for an avian vet visit to ensure that they are healthy. Although they may appear healthy, they may have some infections... and if they've been on a poor diet, the hen could be calcium deficient, so having her lay *more* eggs wouldn't be within the best idea until they have been eating a healthier diet for at least 6 months.

    Generally speaking, breeders *do not* give their pairs any toys... after all, the birds sole purpose is to reproduce, *not* be playing around and messing with toys... but I have heard of some breeders who supply their pairs with toys, and the birds are quite happy to play with the toys, as well as to reproduce.

    Birds can mate without the hen laying eggs. I've heard of a cockatiel pair that have been mating for well over a year, and the hen has yet to lay an egg (although, who's to say she can?) Likewise, it's possible for a single hen to lay eggs without a male around, or having seen a male in several years. Think about chickens...

    A diet transition should ideally take a minimum of 1 week, but can take longer. So long as they are eating at least, that's good. Start offering sprouts, veggies, cooked/sprouted grains, cooked legumes, etc now. I've posted this "article" elsewhere, but never had it posted here... so I've copied and pasted it for your pleasure (and others). I hope it is of some help to you!
    Converting Parrots to a Healthier Diet - Tips


    There's a debate that gravel, in any form, is not needed for parrots, and may cause an untimely death. Parrots don't *need* grit in any form, however the type that includes shells may be beneficial - although if the birds are getting plenty of minerals, it's not needed.

    You can try moving them now, and if it's possible, put the cages doors right up against eachother and "scare" them into the new cage. Otherwise, you will have to remove them using either gloves or a towel, if you dont want to be bitten. I should also say that this pair *should* be in quarantine as you do not know if they are healthy or not.

    So far as I know, it's not really standard to band a bird in any particular way regarding sex, although I do think most breeders use the right leg to band with... what birds I've had have been banded on the right leg as far as I recall.


    I had a male cherry headed conure that mutilated his stomach and it had nothing to do with hormones... and a female cockatiel that has mutilated the ends of her wings. Plucking could be due to hormaonl reasons, stress, boredom, infections, or possibly even some artery problem or otherwise. All medical reasons should be ruled out by an avian vet.



    And to conclude all this, I am not a breeder, and have very little experience handraising. Beyond what I have mentioned above, I would also recommend for you to find a local breeder who could help teach you how to handfeed (if you want to be a breeder yourself. you don't *have* to breed just because you have a pair), and one that could help you with getting the proper setup for handraising chicks and keeping them warm. If you would want to breed, I would also recommend a larger cage so that the pair can get exercise. A hen who does not get enough exercise may be more likely to become egg-bound than a hen who is in shape... so ideally, a flight cage at least 4' long. (and yes, I also realize that a lot of breeders use cages that are about 1' square... and I find this extremely unhealthy for the birds).
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    Re: Have a pair of breeding Sun Conures and...NEED HELP!

    Postby tweetebirds on Thu Nov 11, 2010 6:04 pm

    First thing is to REMOVE the nest box!! These birds should not have a box on for at least a year so they can become healthy. I'm sure other breeders would say less time, but if they were MY pair I wouldn't even think of a nest box for at least a year. They may still lay eggs, but not having something to lay them in might curb the hen some from laying and wanting to nest.

    I highly doubt they will lay eggs coming from the conditions they did. Birds have to have all the right conditions to lay eggs, if they are not being met, they will not nest. They may still mate, but she more then likely will not lay eggs.

    I can't speak for other breeders but ALL of our birds have toys. They get rotated weekly, along with perches. It ALWAYS ticks me off when I see birds with NO toys, no stimulation (well except to PRODUCE), etc. These "breeder birds" are NO different then their offspring they produce. They should be treated the same as a pet, IMHO. We have happy, healthy, loving birds and they actually do produce babies as an added bonus. So do NOT let anyone tell you that because they are breeders they shouldn't have toys and stimulation in their lives.
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    Re: Have a pair of breeding Sun Conures and...NEED HELP!

    Postby Bluesbird Exotics on Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:11 pm

    Sing it, tweetebirds! :mrgreen:
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    Re: Have a pair of breeding Sun Conures and...NEED HELP!

    Postby tweetebirds on Thu Nov 11, 2010 11:47 pm

    LOL...I will :) I'll step down from the little soapbox now...that is all... :lol:
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    Re: Have a pair of breeding Sun Conures and...NEED HELP!

    Postby MFids on Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:54 pm

    Personally, I think hens will breed in just about any condition... I have one hen [cockatiel] that in her previous place, the house was overrun with cats, everyone was a smoker, some were chain-smokers (ceilings were yellow, house murky), and the kids took illegal drugs/pot. This tiel was stuck in a "finch" cage (you know the type, often sold for finches but not even suitable for a finch), then upgraded to what one might call a "budgie" cage, about 3x bigger than the previous cage but still not even adequate for a cockatiel. Basically, a cage where she could just about touch the top of the cage and the bottom with her crest and tail feathers - not being able to spread wings to a cage that was house shaped and she could be able to spread her wings most of the way, if not completely. Fed seed only, and food/water changed *ONLY* when someone remembered to check (which is what nearly killed her). They ended up covering up the cage almost 24/7 because she was "too noisy" (and everyone who knows female cockatiels, generally speaking, they are pretty quiet!). Well "Mr Tom" started laying eggs, and became a chronic egg layer. Eggs were removed, she layed more. The eggs she was laying started becoming deformed, either roundish or oblong in shape. She was near 50% underweight, and kept to her eggs. I can't say I'd be surprised if hens have laid in worse conditions.

    I do know that breeders standards and opinions due vary, depending on if they go through old school thought, new school, or form their own opinions... but I do appreciate your input [for quakingcanopy] treetebirds, since I am not a breeder myself!
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